Monday, July 4, 2011
Some Thoughts on Weeding
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Pictures
Thursday, June 23, 2011
June 21
June 20
Sunday, June 19, 2011
June 19
June 18
Then I came back and received a call from Molly, the woman on the farm in Provence. We talked about my internship, what I would be doing on the farm etc. I would work there for room and board so all I would need to do would be to take the TGV. I am waiting to hear back from an NGO that might have a research project for me regarding sustainable agriculture but if they do not respond by Monday, I will head down to Provence on Tuesday morning and do a project on organic agro-tourism and help with a community garden. I will help them with their vegetable garden, with their chickens, sheep and bees. I am incredibly exicted!
June 17
After dinner I hadn't heard anything new. Helene, my cousin and I went to an outdoor art market. There were some people playing jazz and we walked around and looked at the paintings of all types. I learned two new words: smooth and rough--lisse et rougue (not sure how to spell them, just know how to pronounce them). Then we hung out with Helene's friend, talked about the way words sound and what that does to their meaning and ate nutella with french bread. It was a very French evening of sorts.
June 16
I needed to find an internship PRONTO so I got the addresses of the NGO's, plotted out my plan for the metro and printed out letters of recommendation and my resume. I was off. After walking around Paris for hours I had recieved 3 NO's. To cheer myself up I bought a pain au chocolate. It was damn good. I was pretty heartbroken with the last one, because it was a community garden in Paris and was my best hope and I went home with a broken spirit.
June 15
June 12, 13, 14
I took the bus on Tuesday. Pius drove Mispa and Celsea and I to the main road, we took a taxi and they helped me buy a ticket at the bus station. Three hours later I was on the bus. I was worried at the beginning because someone said that the bus we were taking had broken down on the way to Bamenda the day before and the bus driver reassuring me that it was fine didn't really help beacause I knew that he just wanted to leave and not have to fix it. The bus was super slow taking off. It was having a huge amount of problems mounting the hills. But after about 30 minutes and me with my mantra of "I think I can, I think I can", from The Little Train That Could, the bus stopped being extremely slow. 6 long hours later we were there. I had befriended a woman who sat next to me. She decided she was my Cameroonian mother and gave me a grilled plantain to eat on the way and the guy next to me helped me bargain for a really cool hand woven basket. When we arrived in Younde I asked the woman to wait with me until my ride came and she said she had no problem with that. She wanted my e-mail address so we could stay in contact. People here often ask for my e-mail address, even if they themselves don't have e-mail addresses. I found this a lot. Justine, Mispa's family member picked me up. We went around to various family members and friends and she introduced me to them. Then we got to her house and I met her oldest daughter, her relative and the housekeeper. I took a bucket shower and then we had my favorite food for dinner: rice with fried fish and tomato sauce.
June 10 and 11
June 9
Thursday, June 9, 2011
June 9
Last night I went to meet the group of Americans and Europeans at a market. The “market” was actually the name of the place, and it turned out to be a restaurant. I ordered a fish, it was quite tasty. The people there were not chatty. I’m not sure what it was, but no one was in a very cheerful mood. My phone is having problems, I can hear the person on the other end, but they cannot hear me. So I have been txting when need be. I would need to take two different taxis back home, plus walk down a dirt road for about 15 minutes in the dark so naturally I wanted someone to come with me, especially because it was my first time outside of the home by myself. Everyone lived near by and no one wanted to take the cab with me. luckily I was talking to a local who works for an NGO that deals with food security. He has worked with NDEF before and knows where the office is. He offered to drive me back in his motorcycle because he lives near by. I wouldn’t ride the motorcycle with him, but he said he would escort me back. So he did. I told him I would pay for his taxi ride back but I wanted to give him something else, but I don’t really have anything. But I do have candy canes that I brought just in case. So I gave him two candy canes and he seemed pretty delighted. i lucked out with Samuel and decided not to go out again at night by myself.
Today we thought we were going to a conference but it is actually Friday and Saturday so we did work around the farm. We fixed the structure that you put cuttings in and then I set it up for new ones. I learned how to prepare cuttings and then I planted them. My new morning ritual will be to wipe down the inside part of the plastic to allow for the sun to shine through and to mist them with water.
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
June 5
I spent the day in bed trying to get down my fever and eating rice with salt and margarine. My family thought this was very odd, to put margarine on rice. Now that I think of it, it’s a bit bizarre, but it’s the food I was given when I was sick when I was a kid so it’s my comfort food. But I got lots of—“you are putting what?” on your rice looks.
June 6
I was pretty much completely fever free and Pius and Mirabelle were heading off to the rural farm for all of Monday and the majority of Tuesday, which meant that if I didn’t go with them I would have pretty much absolutely nothing to do at home for the next two days, which I felt was worse than feeling a bit under the weather.
We went into town to get provisions such as potatoes, salted fish, Maggi bullion cubes, which they seem to flavour most things with, oil and peanuts which they put in a hand crank. I was quite delighted with it, I like those kinds of contraptions and the woman did not seem to be enjoying herself doing it, so I asked the woman if I could crank it and grind them. She said yes and they watched me grind it, and were quite amused. After getting potatoes I got several women who asked if I would marry their son. I wear a plain silver “wedding” band when I travel by myself. They saw it when Mirabelle lifted up my hand and together cried a rather loud sound of dismay. We got some crackers I could put peanut butter on that I brought from home and some more bottled water for me and we were on our way to the village. We drove through beautiful green hilly areas with streams and a river and lots of huts and gardens growing on steep hills. About three hours later we were there. Pius went into the main village there and rounded up 5 men to work with us. They took dead, damp palm leaves and rolled them up into a flat doughnut, put them on top of their head’s and then mounted a bucket of samplings on top. They gave me the palm leaf cushion and mounted the bucket with plants on top of my head and then we ascended. Putting that kind of weight on your head makes you REALLY feel you leg muscles and your lower back that is trying to keep everything balanced. For the next few hours we measured out where to put the palm saplings, they had to be properly spaced throughout the area. It rained sporadically during the entire time. I learned how to use a digging stick and now have somewhat of a better idea of what a meter looks like. When we came down at 5 our hut had partially caved in because of the rain. I being ALL about safety was not amused and after a dinner of rice with fried fish in a tomato, onion, maggi sauce, I slept in the car for fear there would be a large rainstorm and that the whole house would cave in.
June 7
We woke up with the sun, around 5:30, ate fire re-heated rice and fish and then headed out to plant more. I was in charge of holding the stick so things could be measured. Then Mirabelle and I planted papaya trees and “tree tomatoes”, which as far as I can tell are sour plums. Around 12 or so we packed up and headed back to Bamenda. On the way we saw a woman who needed a ride. She was going to town to sell palm oil so some men from down the road hauled the huge buckets of palm oil into the car. One of them said he was hungry and that I should marry him so he has enough money to eat. Let me tell you, this man looked well fed. But being “hungry” seems to be the main scapegoat for why I am proposed to. Mirabelle told him I was married. He was not satisfied. He wanted to know about this man. I told him he was back in America. Then we had to get back on the road. We picked up a teenager and then later an older man all looking for a ride to Bamenda. Apparently when you live in a village, there isn’t really transportation anywhere so you either wait by the roadside or you know someone who has a car and have them drive you. They compensated Pius; it is like a loose bus system of sorts. When we got back home there was no electricity, there hadn’t been for over an hour. My plan had been to check e-mail and clean up my room but that was no longer an option. However, after I ate dinner, the electricity came back on, I check my e-mail and then at 8:30 I went to bed because I was pretty exhausted from not sleeping very well the night before in the car.
June 8
This morning we went to a sort of fair for World Environmental Day. We were going to exhibit NDEF and what they do with plants as well as make some money for the NGO by selling some trees that had been marcotted, some seedlings and other s that had been grafted. All will bear fruit in as little as 2-3 years. We also sold honey from the hives and a skin lotion for skin ailments made from bees waxy, Vaseline and vegetable oil. I also met a German girl who works for another environmental NGO. She and the Americans as well as a French girl all live close to each other and meet up every Wednesday night to go to a market and get dinner. Since today is Wednesday, I will be joining them and I am very excited!
Sunday, June 5, 2011
June 4
I wasn’t feeling great, but I went with Mispa to the market because it is full of stuff on Saturdays. When I got back I realized that I wasn’t hot from the sun, but that I had a fever. I caught something : ( The rest of the day I rested, drank a lot of water and ate plain rice and went to bed ridiculously early.
Saturday, June 4, 2011
June 3
Yesterday we prepared plants and the honey for a convention taking place next week. I was in charge of squishing the honey comb between my fingers to break the wax and let it release the honey. African bees are angry bees so I decided to play it safe and put on my bee suit because we put the containers of honey in the office and did the processing in the office and now bees are wild to get it and eat us so we give their honey back. So I put on the bee suit and looked thoroughly ridiculous sitting there and squishing it but I felt relatively safe despite the fact that bees were swarming in front of my face, so that’s good. The bees began to get super pissed and I was done with my job so I left the office. Bees followed me out because my gloves and part of my suit had quite a bit of honey/wax on them. I once again was the weird American walking around looking like I was rushing somewhere, trying to get the 3 or 4 bees following me to leave me alone so I could take of the suit, go inside and wash off. It took me a couple minutes. I took off everything in ten seconds and booked it inside. Lunch was a traditional food that everyone here in Bamenda knows how to cook. It’s called Acho, yes, like the noise you make when you sneeze. It is made out of boiled, smashed coco yam and plantain cooked in banana leaf. Pius’ sister and Linda were making it and they offered for me to try to mash it. It was fun, but if I had to do it for an hour, I don’t think it would be as enjoyable. To eat it, you take it out of the banana leaf (or if you live in a village and don’t have plates you use the banana leaf as your plate) and mould the pasty mixture into a bowl to hold this red sauce with mushrooms and cow hide, which has a distinct flavour that tastes pretty much how you would expect it to—meaty and musky. It was good, but a bit strong. I mostly didn’t like the pasty texture of the Acho—it reminded me of baby food. I decided it would be tasty to dip avocado in the sauce. It was a good combination. At 3 we went to a meeting about Decentralization in Bamenda. There are apparently meetings the first Friday of every month and they invite a speaker. This week it was the mayor of Bamenda. We got there at 3:15 and I walked towards the building and there they were…….WHITE PEOPLE! I have only seen three white people since I’ve been here and it has been from afar. I was excited to talk to these people, wondering what kind of work they were doing here. They were all in their thirties and were working as consultants. Then two women about my age arrived. They are in law school and came to Cameroon for the summer to work with a human rights laywer. I was excited to see them but after a couple minutes I became disappointed when I noticed that they weren’t really interacting with any of the Africans other than greeting them. They were all in a group talking about places to get cherry coke and black tea and talking about tennis. They had all been there a couple years and they didn’t seem to have assimilated. Maybe I’m being a bit judgemental, but I feel like if you live in a place for a couple of years, other than having some things you like that remind you of home, why would you not want to embrace the lifestyle of the place you are living?
The meeting was fine. The mayor talked and people asked questions. Everyone seemed pretty uplifted by his ideas on decentralization and giving more power to the people, but I honestly thought it was mostly talk. On the drive back to the house we gave a ride to one of Pius’ friends. Most men here are not very chatty with me. They greet me, often welcome me to Cameroon and then go on about their business. But this guy was really quite talkative asking about how I liked Cameroon, where I was from etc. Then he told me he knows someone at NMSU who is working as a professor but he has no interest in living in America because it is too liberal and women have too many rights. He had a smile on his face, which most people have most of the time, so it was unclear if he was joking or not. After a moment, since he wasn’t laughing, then he probably wasn’t joking. “Oy” I thought to myself, “Why am I here”?
It rained like I have never experienced. I was afraid that the building was going to wash away. But I had to remind myself that that is normal here and that I would be fine. I am from NM, where a ten minute drizzle is a lot of rain so torrential downpours are something I am NOT used to.
The internet seems to be getting worse. I am not sure if it is because of the rain damaging the phone lines or what but I am having an extremely hard time connecting to my e-mail : (
Friday, June 3, 2011
First Days
May 28th
After two 6 hour flights I landed in Younde on the 28th. I had befriended a woman on the plane to Yaounde. Her name is Carole. She
and I spoke in French and talked. She is from Yaounde but lives in Paris now working as a secretary. I told her about my work at NDEf and my worry about Mispa, the wife of Pius who is the coordinator, not being there to pick me up. She told me that she would wait with me at the airport until she came. As soon as I got through customs there Mispa was, with her two cousins, Melanie and her sister. They had a sign with my name on it. My huge smile tipped them off (as well as the fact that there were only two white people in the airport and the other one was a nun) that it was me they were picking up. They hugged me and welcomed me to Cameroon and then we took a cab to the cousin’s house. I met one other woman who was also living at the house and a couple of the neighbors’ kids who came out to check out
the visitor. The youngest girl who looked to be about 5 just starred at me. She wasn’t sure what to do. We ate boiled rice with a spicy tomato sauce with fried fish in it for dinner. They played Cameroonian music for me and then I went to bed. Throughout the night there were heavy rains, heavier than I have every heard in my life. But no one else seemed to be fazed by it.
May 29th
We got up at 6 with the sun and I went out of the house to check out the scenery. There were baby chickens outside and people wiping off the mud from the passageway to their houses. The rain had brought in a lot of red mud. I brushed my teeth outside with Melanie because the bathroom was occupied. As people came out of their houses to brush their teeth, wash dishes and do laundry, they looked at me and kept about their business. I think they weren’t so much shocked to see a white girl but wondering why I was there, or who had brought me. Then we went to the bus station and bought tickets. People kept coming by selling perfumes, jewellery and watches. Then almost an hour and a half after the scheduled time we took off. Each time we drove through a new town there would be speed bumps and vendors would take this opportunity to sell coconuts, pineapple slices and other fruits. After about three hours we stopped at a large market where Mispa’s relative sells fruit and we bought roasted plantains and roasted plums. The plums were extremely sour and I couldn’t eat them but the plantains were delicious. When we got into Bamenda Pius picked us up in his car and we headed home. Three children were there to greet me along with Linda, the nanny.
May 30th
This morning for breakfast was an egg and pasta thing. It was pretty much an omelette with the addition of pasta. It was good but it was a bit strong for that early in the morning. It would have been a great dinner though. So I opted out for two mangos and some green tea I brought from home—this morning just didn’t seem like a dried milk and instant coffee day. I started my work day no more than 30 steps away from the kitchen. The office is right next to the house. We had a meeting at 8, planning for the rest of the week. Pius, Maribelle and I were the only one’s there. Apparently there is someone else that works for them but it was unclear why he wasn’t there. We introduced ourselves and then planned out the week on our time sheet/calendar. After lunch Mispa and I went downtown to get me a SIM card for my phone and try and get to an ATM. The line for the ATM was horrendous so we decided to come back a day when it would be less busy. Then we waited in a long line for a SIM card. Afterwards we headed off to a market where they sell just about everything—bananas, other fruits, women selling food, clothing, flip flops, baskets and things for tourists. We visited Mispa’s mother’s stall and I bought two small baskets. Then we went to go have Mispa’s hair done. While she was getting it done I began to play with kids who were hanging around. I became a tickle monster and chased them as they screamed with laughter. The two children then turned two five and then to seven. There was a whole group of little children waiting to be scarred by the while girl. It was a blast.
Dinner was boiled cassava and this soup with pan fried fish in it. Boiled cassava is a really dense carb so it was a but heavy on my stomach but the fish was delicious and getting to eat with my hands was nice. I miss that from my time in India.
May 31
I wrote a grand proposal for NDEF and how their agroforestry techniques combat global climate change. It was the first time I have written something like that. I wouldn’t want to do it every day all day, but it was kind of cool trying to figure out how to clearly describe how NDEF helps combat climate change—trees create a forest of resources, which because they are not uprooted every season become sinks for CO2 while decreasing erosion, providing food and firewood. The power shut off around 2pm so we decided to go downtown. It rained and rained and rained. That was the theme of the day.
June 1
Today Maribelle and I emptied pots and arranged the nursery. Then Pius talked to us about the various ways to graft trees and why and then he showed us how. It seemed fairly simple, at least straightforward but I think it was his mastery that made it look easy. I struggled a bit with the angle of the cuts on the plant as well as fusing them together with this long strand of plastic. Before learning how to graft I wondered why people didn’t do it more often because the results are amazing: they bear the fruit you choose and they are able to do so in as little as 2-3 years after being grafted. It was after I began to do it myself that I realized not only it is a pain to do and quite time consuming, but apparently the success rate is quite low. We put our names on each one we grafted to see if we did it correctly. Out of the 10 I did, I am not sure any will succeed. You are able to tell in a couple of weeks, so I will see then, whether I did it correctly or not.
June 2
Today is a Catholic holiday. I was expecting to go to the service with Maribelle but apparently arrangements weren’t made. So Pius and I got an order of seedlings together for a pickup. Pius cut down a passion fruit from a tree on their property, which I ate and then we headed to town to run some errands like buying work clothes and going to the ATM.
Interesting things I’ve noticed so far:
- Because we are near the equator there are 12 hours of night and day. With the relative lack of electricity people get up and start doing things when the sun comes up around 5:30/6. They do things in the morning that we would think of as a post dinner activity such as washing dishes.
- Women sing out loud to songs on the radio, which before this I have never witnessed.
- Women shave off their eyebrows and pencil them on. I find this a peculiar practice because the humidity is so high here that it tends to melt and smudge on their faces. No one seems to comment when eyebrow pencil has made it up to their forehead or onto their nose. The smudges are all ignored.
- TV is on almost all the time in the living room. Music videos, news or some soap opera type show are playing. The bad signal causes there to be many “skips” where there is no audio or visual for a second or two and then it resumes.
- TV shows all have extremely dramatic music and dialogue. They remind me in a sense of Bollywood films except there is no singing or dancing.
- Meals are not eaten together. They are usually prepared in the morning and put in a “cooler” type thing that keeps things hot and you eat whenever you are hungry during the day. At night we eat when the food done being prepared and then when we are done eating we move three feet over to the couches and continue to watch TV.
I tried to upload photos but the very slow computer would simply not allow it. I might be able to find a high speed internet café and add them at some point.